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  • Does Your Air Conditioning System Need a New Condenser Fan Motor?


    During the dog days of summer, there is nothing worse than an air conditioning system malfunction in your home or business -- especially if you are unable to determine the cause. Immediately jumping to the conclusion that you need to replace your whole air conditioning unit can be a costly mistake, but it can also be very expensive to hire an expert to identify an easily diagnosable problem. When your air conditioner stops working, one of the simplest things to check for is a malfunctioning condenser fan motor.

    The Importance of the Condenser Fan Motor

    In an air conditioning system, heat from the surrounding air is absorbed by a refrigerant, creating cool air that can be circulated throughout your home or business. The condenser is the part of the system that releases the heat that has been absorbed by the refrigerant during the cooling process, which gets the system ready for the next cooling cycle. As the refrigerant releases the heat, the condenser fan blows the heat past the condenser coil so that the heat can be released. The condenser fan motor is the driver of the condenser fan, so it is essential for the proper functioning of your air conditioning system.

    Diagnosing Problems with Your Condenser Fan Motor

    A telltale sign that your condenser fan motor might not be working is a situation in which your air conditioning seems to work for awhile, but then stops working. When you initially turn on the air conditioning unit, it will blow cold air into your home or office, but a short time later, the unit will just start blowing out room temperature air.

    To further investigate the situation, you can turn the system on and monitor the condenser fan. If the condenser fan does not start spinning within 20 minutes, it is likely that there is a problem with the condenser fan motor. There is a chance that the problem is mechanical -- that is, a stuck fan -- so you can try to get it spinning again by nudging it with a small stick. However, if this does not work, you probably need to replace your condenser fan motor.

    Replacing Your Condenser Fan Motor

    Luckily, most condenser fan motors are not extremely expensive. You can buy a high quality condenser fan motor for $175 to $200, which is much less than purchasing an entirely new air conditioning unit. National Air Warehouse offers top-notch condenser fan motors at competitive prices. Contact us today to find a motor that works for your system!

  • Understanding Insulation Ratings for Duct Replacements: A Guide for Home Remodelers


    If you are a home remodeler, you might find yourself needing to replace the ducts in existing HVAC systems. Whether the duct is in an attic, a basement, or a crawlspace, the wear-and-tear of long-term usage can damage the duct, resulting in leaks that cause air to escape before it can be released into the home. In many cases, ducting needs to be replaced as part of a larger home remodel, in order to ensure that a comfortable climate can be maintained in all rooms of the house.

    While the ductwork in an older home may be uninsulated, most of the replacement ducts on the market today are insulated. When you consider the options, you will find that different ducts have different insulation ratings, which are expressed as R-values. You need to understand what the R-value means in order to choose the right one for your home remodeling project.

    Thermal Resistance (R-Value) Definition

    The United States Department of Energy defines thermal resistance, also known as R-value, as “the insulating material’s resistance to conductive heat flow.” Put more simply, the R-value measures the effectiveness of the insulation material. A material with a higher R-value is a better insulator. Some of the factors that influence R-value include the composition of the insulation material, the thickness of the material, and its density.

    The Right R-Value for a Home Remodeling Project

    When deciding how high the R-value needs to be for the home remodeling project that you are currently working on, the two main things you need to consider are the climate zone in which you are working and the location of the ducting within the home.

    • For homes that are located in a COLD CLIMATE, a high R-value is extremely important. If the ducting is located in an attic, the R-value should be between R6 and R11. For ducting located in a crawlspace or unheated basement, anywhere from R2 to R11 will probably suffice.
    • For homes that are located in a MIXED CLIMATE, a high R-value is slightly less important, but it can help to save the homeowner money during the colder months. If the ducting is located in an attic, an R-value between R4 and R8 is sufficient. The range expands if the ducting is located in a crawlspace or unheated basement; anywhere from R2 to R8 will probably work.
    • For homes that are located in a WARM CLIMATE, you should still be looking for replacement ducts with R-values between R4 and R8 if the ducting is located in the attic. If the ducting is located in a crawlspace or unheated basement, you can probably get away with no insulation at all, but to be on the safe side and help save the homeowner money, most home remodelers choose ducting with an R2 or R4 value.

    If you’re looking to purchase ducting for your home remodeling project, National Air Warehouse offers options with R-values ranging from R4 to R8. Contact us today for more information about our products!

  • Understanding the AFUE Rating System


    When looking for a new furnace, you’ll probably notice different options have different AFUE ratings. AFUE (which may be pronounced as “A-Few” or “A-F-U-E”) stands for Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. Essentially, it is a measure of the efficiency with which the furnace operates. Therefore, it essential to consider the AFUE rating when you purchase a new furnace.

    Calculating the AFUE Rating

    The Federal Trade Commission requires all new furnaces and boilers in the United States to display their AFUE rating to consumers. Like SEER ratings for air conditioning systems, the AFUE rating indicates the level of efficiency with which your system operates. However, unlike the SEER rating system, which utilizes an arbitrary rating scale, the AFUE rating coincides with the direct calculation of the ratio of the annual heat output of the furnace to the total amount of energy consumed by the furnace. Put more simply, it is the amount of heat produced per unit of energy consumed.

    AFUE = (Total heat output) / (Total energy consumed)

    When you perform this calculation, you will come up with a percentage -- which is your AFUE rating. If your AFUE rating is 85%, then 85% of the fuel you put in your furnace will be converted into usable heat. The other 15% will be lost to air leaks, burners, and other sources of inefficiency. However, it is important to note that heat losses in the duct system and piping are not included in the AFUE rating. According the the U.S. Department of Energy, additional energy losses can be as high as 35% if your ducts are located in an attic, garage, or other unconditioned area.

    What to Expect from an AFUE Rating

    For old, low efficiency heating systems, the AFUE is usually between 56% and 70%. A heating system is considered to have medium-level efficiency if the AFUE rating is between 80% and 83%. To be considered a high efficiency heating system, a furnace must have an AFUE rating that is between 90% and 98.5%. Choosing a higher efficiency system with a higher AFUE rating will help you save both energy and money.

    An Important Caveat: AFUE Ratings and Fuel Type

    When it comes to energy cost comparisons, AFUE ratings can only be directly compared if you are looking at systems that utilize the same fuel type. For example, natural gas furnaces can vary widely in AFUE rating, while all electric furnaces have AFUE ratings between 95% and 100%, since there are basically no sources of energy loss -- but that doesn’t mean that choosing the electric furnace will yield lower energy costs. Electricity costs more than natural gas in most parts of the country, so a gas furnace with a slightly lower AFUE rating will probably save you money in the long run.

    National Air Warehouse offers a wide range of medium- and high-efficiency gas furnaces. Contact us today to find the right system for your home or business!

  • Choosing a New Air Conditioner Condenser


    Over the last few weeks, we’ve been talking about getting your air conditioning system up and running for summer. That means you need to make sure that all components of your AC system are in top shape. If they’re not, you may need to repair or replace individual parts or the whole system. For owners of split systems, it is not uncommon to find that the condenser -- also known as the outside system or the outdoor unit -- has been damaged by inclement winter or spring weather. If you need to replace your condenser to get ready for summer, there are a few important things to know.

    Condenser Basics

    The condenser is an essential part of a split system air conditioner, which is why it is necessary to have it replaced if it is not working. After the refrigerant is heated in the compressor, it is transferred to the condenser, where it passes through a series of coils. As it passes through these coils, the heat from the refrigerant escapes through the fins of the condenser, and by the time it reaches the end of the coils, it is much cooler. Ultimately, the refrigerant leaves the condenser as a mist, which is turned into a gas and cooled in the evaporator coil before being blown out as cool air by the fan.

    Today, most condensers come pre-charged with a refrigerant. R-410A is the newest type of refrigerant and the one to look for when you are buying a condenser. In contrast to alkyl halide refrigerants that contain bromine or chlorine, like R-22, R-410A does not contribute to the depletion of the ozone layer. It also allows for higher seasonal energy efficiency (SEER) ratings than R-22.

    Understanding SEER Ratings

    When choosing between condensers, you are likely to encounter models that have different SEER ratings. Most commonly, you can find 14 SEER and 16 SEER models, but 18 SEER condensers are also available. The SEER rating indicates the energy efficiency of the condenser model, with a higher number indicating a higher level of efficiency. Although it may cost more upfront, choosing a system with a higher SEER rating can save you money in the long-run and reduce the degree to which the refrigerant contributes to climate change.

    Understanding Cooling Capacities

    If you are replacing your condenser, it is essential that you choose a model with a cooling capacity (tonnage) that is consistent with your indoor system. If you are unsure about what size to buy for your split system, it can be helpful to contact your retailer.

    National Air Warehouse provides a wide selection of condensers at multiple sizes, and we can help you figure out which size you need. All of our condensers come pre-charged with R-410A, and we ship to your home or office for free. Contact us today to replace your condenser before summer heats up!

  • Planning for Summer: Do You Need to Replace Your Evaporator Coil?





    As temperatures heat up and spring turns to summer, you have to make sure that your air conditioner is ready for the hottest months of the year. Last week, we went through the basic steps you should take at the beginning of the season to figure out whether you need to replace your air conditioner. Another issue to consider when planning for summer is whether or not you need a new evaporator coil. There are a few reasons why you might want to replace this essential part of your unit, including malfunction and inefficiency.

    Malfunctioning Evaporator Coil

    When going through the steps to check whether your air conditioner is ready for summer, you may find that your evaporator coil isn’t working. Here are some of the scenarios that suggest malfunction:

    • When you flip the switch, the air conditioner will not turn on.
    • You feel warm air coming through the vents instead of cool air.
    • You hear unusual noises, like hissing and banging, when your air conditioner is running.
    • There are air leaks around the indoor unit.
    • The air conditioner turns itself on and off randomly.

    If you find yourself in any of these situations, it may be unsafe to run the unit, and you should turn it off until the problem has been diagnosed. A new evaporator coil may be able to resolve the issue.

    Inefficient Evaporator Coil

    Older models of evaporator coils can prevent an air conditioning unit from running with maximum energy efficiency, so investing in a replacement could pay off in energy savings in the long run. Plus, most evaporator coils are only built to last for seven to ten years, so if you’ve been using your evaporator coil for almost a decade, there is a much greater risk that your evaporator coil will malfunction at the peak of summer, when it will be much worse to have no air conditioning while you get a replacement installed. If you’re looking to improve energy efficiency anyway, spring is the ideal time to replace the evaporator coil.

    When looking for a more efficient evaporator coil, you can choose between models with different Seasonal Energy Efficiency (SEER) ratings. The most common options are SEER 14 and SEER 16 rated products. While SEER 16 rated evaporator coils provide slightly higher cooling efficiency, both can provide greater cooling efficiency than legacy models. However, when choosing a new evaporator coil, it is critical to make sure that it is the same size as your original model, or your  cooling efficiency could take a hit regardless of the SEER rating.
    If you need to replace your evaporator coil before the summer starts, National Air Warehouse offers a wide selection of models at affordable prices, entirely online. Explore our offerings to find solutions for all of your HVAC needs.

  • Rheem Heat Pump Prices: Understanding Price Differences Between Split Systems and Packaged Units

    Rheem is a well-respected heat pump supplier, and its 14 SEER-rated heat pumps are some of the most popular on the market today. However, price differences can leave you scratching your head. What accounts for the cost discrepancies between split systems and packaged units? Consider the following cost comparisons for 14 SEER-rated Rheem heat pumps with different cooling capacities:*

    2 Ton Rheem Heat Pump:

    Split System: $1,925numbers-money-calculating-calculation

    Packaged Unit: $2,775

    2.5 Ton Rheem Heat Pump:

    Split System: $1,983

    Packaged Unit: $2,804

    3 Ton Rheem Heat Pump:

    Split System: $2,130

    Packaged Unit: $3,087

    3.5 Ton Rheem Heat Pump:

    Split System: $2,248

    Packaged Unit: $3,532

    4 Ton Rheem Heat Pump:

    Split System: $2,449

    Packaged Unit: $3,762

    5 Ton Rheem Heat Pump:

    Split System: $2,669

    Packaged Unit: $3,892

    *Figures approximated for clarity.

    At each cooling capacity level, the price for the packaged unit is considerably higher. Why does the packaged unit cost more from the same brand? Is the packaged version better, and is it worth paying more? To answer these questions, it is necessary to consider some of the aspects of packaged units and split system heat pumps.

    Installation Costs

    One of the benefits of a packaged unit is that it isn’t hard to install. Because the condenser, compressor and evaporator are all encompassed into a compact cabinet, it doesn’t take much to find an adequate location -- usually near the foundation of a building or on the roof -- and install the unit. As a result, installation costs are low.

    In contrast, a split system heat pump requires expert installation, and it is much more time-consuming and labor-intensive. That’s because the different parts of the unit must be laid out and configured in a way that maximizes energy efficiency. If the installation is performed poorly, your system will operate much less efficiently than a compact unit with the same 14 SEER efficiency rating. Therefore, despite the lower upfront cost of split systems, the installation costs are higher than for packaged units.


    Because they are located outside, packaged units must be able to stand up to the perils of the great outdoors. For instance, the cabinet exterior must be durable enough to protect the water-sensitive components of the heat pump from rain and snow. The best packaged units also make it difficult for animals to get into the unit and build nests in the warm environment or chew through the wires. When you account for the added costs of fortifying a heat pump against the elements, it makes sense that it costs more.

    In contrast, a split system heat pump is comprised of two cabinets: an outdoor cabinet, which contains the condenser, and an indoor cabinet, which contains some of the electrical components that are more sensitive to water damage and animal abuse. Because the indoor cabinet can be placed in a basement or attic, it won’t be vulnerable to the same harsh conditions as a packaged unit, so it doesn’t need as much external protection.

    When comparing Rheem’s packaged unit and split system heat pumps that have the same 14-SEER ratings and cooling capacities, cost discrepancies can be explained by the different ways in which these systems work. Ultimately, the best choice depends on your budget and the needs of your building. For more help figuring out which is best for you, and to find the lowest-priced Rheem products on the market, contact National Air Warehouse today.

  • Do I need an air handler?

    Sometimes the number of components that make up an HVAC (heat, ventilation and air conditioning) system can seem overwhelming. Part of the reason is that HVAC systems are extremely flexible. You can pick only the components you need to heat and cool your business or home as efficiently as possible. In some cases, this involves buying an air handler.

    An air handler has a simple task, to take in air and send it around the home or business. Air handlers often include blowers, heating and cooling systems and filters. It handles much of the “ventilation” port of the HVAC system. Air handlers are commonly used in conjunction with air conditioners. The evaporator coil in the air handler can remove additional heat before sending the air throughout the house.

    Am I in the right climate for an air handler?

    An electric split system for air conditioning in a warm climate, like Florida, will benefit from an air handler. Working in tandem with the air conditioner, the air handler keeps the air cold and blowing.

    However, air handlers can also be beneficial in slightly cooler climates. They can contain both heating and cooling elements. The cooling element would be the evaporator coil, which removes excess heat from the air. Heating elements, like electric heating strips, can also be included in an air handler. In this case, the air handler adds additional heat to the air before blowing it around the home or business.

    While beneficial in cooler climates, air handlers are not as commonly found in cold truly climates, like Minnesota. A gas or electric furnace is commonly used in place instead. Pairing a heat pump with an air handler is typically not sufficient to warm a home or business in a climate that repeatedly drops below zero. A gas or electric furnace is a more effective way to heat the location.

    How do I select an air handler?

    If you live in a warm climate, where the combination of an air handler and air conditioner or heat pump provides sufficient heating and cooling, it's time to look at air handlers. The first step is to do a load calculation, which determines how much heating or cooling is required for the home or business. A Manual J calculation is standard and the most accurate, but rules of thumb can also be applied. The resulting number is the tonnage size of the HVAC system that you ought to purchase for the best efficiency.

    The next item to evaluate is what type of refrigerant the air handler uses. The most common types are R-22 and R410-A. Newer HVAC systems typically use the R-410A refrigerant, which is generally accepted as the more environmentally friendly and efficient refrigerant.

    Air handlers can also be sold with heating elements. This may or may not be necessary in your climate. If your home does not already have heat pump, the heating elements may be a good choice to warm the air in your home when it gets a bit chillier. The heating elements can also work in tandem with a heat pump for greater efficiency. It depends on the system you select for your climate.

    If you need any help determining if your home or business would benefit from an air handler, you can check with an expert or call National Air Warehouse at (888) 997-5160 for assistance.

  • Gas or Electric Heat: A Cost Comparison

    One of the first decisions a homeowner or business owner has to make, regarding an HVAC (heat, ventilation, air conditioning) system, is whether to purchase an electric or gas heater. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages. The up-front costs and long-term costs are one area that people typically examine.

    Up-Front Costs

    These are the costs associated with the initial installation of the heating component of the HVAC system. The first item to look at is whether the home or business has access to electricity and natural gas. Many homes and businesses have both electricity and natural gas lines already running to the house. However, some locations do not have access to natural gas. In this case, running a gas line to the location could be an additional upfront cost. Each home or business is unique and different costs may be taken into consideration for each one.

    The cost of the heater itself is also included in the up-front costs. If you are buying this as a single component, it's often called a furnace. At National Air Warehouse, the electric furnaces start around $700 and the gas furnaces start around $900.

    Looking at just the up-front costs, the electric furnace seems to be cheaper. However, most HVAC systems are meant to be used for years. The long-term costs look at how expensive it is to run each type of furnace for years to come.

    Long-Term Costs

    The costs associated with the furnace in the long term are: maintenance and the cost of the electricity/natural gas. When it comes to maintenance, the electric heaters are typically cheaper to maintain. One of the reasons is that electric furnaces typically outlast gas furnaces. An electric furnace can last for 20-30 years with regular maintenance. Gas furnaces, in comparison, typically have slightly shorter lifespans of 10-20 years.

    People commonly say that the cost of natural gas is lower than that of electricity. This is true in many locations, but it does depend on the location of the home or business. Electricity is cheaper in some cities than others. To truly determine the long-term impact of paying for electricity or gas, a homeowner or business owner can calculate the energy use. The amount of electricity used is typically tabulated as kilowatt-hours (kWh) and the amount of natural gas is often tabulated as therms. A homeowner could directly compare the costs by converting kWh to therms (1 kWh = 0.034 therms). Less money spent per therm will save the homeowner or business owner in the long-term.

    Making a smart decision regarding electric or gas furnaces may require a bit of thought, but there are many resources out there to help home and business owners decide between the two.

  • Drastically Improve Your Air Quality in Five Super Simple Ways


    Our homes have become as tightly sealed as a ziplock bag with tomato soup dangling upside down over a white couch - and this is where we spend most of our time. Although the air we breathe inside our homes may seem clean, it can be far more hazardous than outdoors. Here are five shockingly simple ways to change your toxic home into a clean air sanctuary.

    1. Pop Open a Window

    You can drastically decrease concentration of toxins, such as carbon dioxide (CO2), in your home by simply opening up a window. A mere 5 to 10 minutes a day can have a large impact on your air quality.

    This is most important when engaging in activities that reduce your air quality, such as cooking, cleaning, painting or bringing newly purchased items into your home. When cooking, properly ventilate to get rid of vapors, grease and smoke that are released into the air. Many cleaning products have harsh chemicals and polluting fragrances. Try more natural cleaning methods. Obviously, paint fumes can be overwhelming. Ventilate by opening a window and using a vent/or fan.

    Many people unwittingly bring toxic items into their home, which then unleash countless hazardous chemicals into the air. That new carpet smell is toxic, and it can off gas for up to five years. Particleboard can be manufactured with many chemicals which are then released into your home. This is also the case with materials that are dyed, like rugs, bedding and curtains. Do a bit of research before buying anything new and when you bring home your new treasures, be sure to ventilate properly.

    2. Pick up a Plant

    Ah mother nature, as beautiful as it is deadly. Especially when it comes to killing toxins in your home. Many common household items are continuously releasing invisible chemicals that are destroying your air quality. For instance, facial tissues, paper bags and napkins, paper towels, waxed paper, particleboard and synthetic fibers can all contain Formaldehyde. Formaldehyde exposure can cause irritations to the mouth, throat and nose, and swelling of the lungs and larynx.

    Other common chemicals are Xylene, Trichloroethylene, Ammonia and Benzene. These are in printing ink, paint, detergents, dyes, glue, furniture wax, plastics and household cleaners. Being exposed to these chemicals can cause headache, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, eye irritations, confusion, heart problems, liver and kidney damage, unconsciousness and even coma.

    NASA conducted the Clean Air Study and found the best air-filtering plants. The study found that the Florist’s Chrysanthemum and the Peace Lily can filter all five of the chemicals listed above. You can find a complete list of toxins, their effects and the best air-filtering plants in this handy dandy infographic.

    3. Get a Hygrometer

    What’s a hygrometer, you say? Good question. It’s much like a thermometer, but instead of measuring temperature, it measures your humidity levels. Usually, you can tell if you have too much or too little moisture in your home, but if you want to be absolutely certain that you have the ideal humidity level of 45%, you now know your options.

    Anywhere between 30% and 50% humidity will serve you and your home well. If there is too much moisture, you’ll experience the growth of mold and rot; which creates the perfect accommodations for cockroaches and termites. In addition to adding to allergies, you may also notice wallpaper and paint peeling or see stains on your ceilings and walls. If the air is too dry, you may have dry noses, cracked skin and scratchy throats. These conditions also damage wood, drywall and other home furnishings.

    If your current humidity level is not working for you, simply purchase a humidifier and/or dehumidifier. Typically, basements, bathrooms and laundry rooms are more humid than other living spaces. By properly ventilating these areas when needed, you may be able to avoid a dehumidifier.

    4. Schedule an Air Duct Cleaning

    Air duct cleaning may or may not be necessary in your home. To avoid scams, be sure to thoroughly vet your professional. The EPA offers guidelines on how to hire a professional to clean your air ducts. Here are some instances when it is recommended to have your ducts examined:
    Home Renovation - If you have recently remodeled your home, especially if there was asbestos, lead paint, excessive dust or abatement, your ducts will likely need to be thoroughly cleaned. Seal off ducts during renovation and clean them after work is complete.
    Creepy Critters - If you find any signs that you may have animals nesting in your ducts or HVAC system, be sure to have them removed and the ducts and HVAC unit cleaned.
    Mold - Have ductwork and HVAC systems cleaned if there is visible mold growth.
    Contaminants - If you’ve vacuumed and cleaned the fuzzy grime off your registers but are still noticing debris, pet hair, odors or other contaminants being spewed into the room, you probably want to get your ducts cleaned.
    Unexplained Illness - If you’ve addressed every possible indoor allergen, yet, someone in your household is still suffering from unexplained allergy-related issues, your ducts and HVAC may be the culprit - easily banished by a duct cleaning.

    5. Test for Radon
    how radon enters house

    Radon could be the most hazardous and invisible thing lurking in your home. Luckily, testing for it is quick, easy and inexpensive. Radon is a colorless, odorless gas that greatly increases your chance of getting lung cancer. Actually, it is the top cause of lung cancer among nonsmokers and is second only to smoking in overall lung cancer cases nationwide. It claims 21,000 lives every year - and this could be just as preventable as smoking.

    It is estimated that 1 in 15 homes have elevated levels of radon, and no home is immune. This radioactive gas seeps into homes from the soil, which is contaminated by the natural decay of uranium. This is how radon is created and it enters the home through cracks in the foundation, walls and floors, construction joints, spaces in suspended floors and service and water pipes.

    Testing for radon is fast, cheap and easy. Most local home improvement stores carry kits or you can buy one online. Kansas State University offers a discounted radon test kit through their National Radon Program Services.

    To learn more about radon or if you have elevated levels and need to find a professional to help, visit the EPA Consumer Guide to Radon Reduction. It offers valuable information about radon dangers, testing and test results. Here, you can also find ways to improve your home or find a qualified contractor to make necessary changes. For more products that can help you improve your indoor air quality you can also click here to visit our online store.

  • 7 Ways to Help Eliminate AC Condenser Failure

    There is little doubt that your AC condenser has been running fairly consistently now that hot weather has arrived. Similarly, there is little doubt that you would like to keep it running throughout the duration of the season.

    So if you're looking for ways to avoid condenser failure and keep your home cool and comfortable for the remainder of the summer, then read on to discover 7 ways to help mitigate ac condenser failure.

    1. Dirty or corroded coils. Time, as it does with most things, has a way of rendering them unusable. So, as dust, grime, and minerals scales accumulate, the air conditioner can not push cool air out efficiently. Extreme cases cause overheating and unit failure.

    2. Blocked suction lines. When refrigerant lines become blocked, efficient cooling become secondary. If left as is, eventually your unit will fail outright.

    3. Incorrect suction line sizes, especially if you have had your unit serviced, and the outcome wasn't favorable. An incorrect suction line leads to unit failure.

    4. Over-filled refrigerant. If you had your unit serviced by someone who may not have been so handy, it's possible that it was done wrong. Too much, or even the wrong type of refrigerant can cause system failure.

    5. Low charge. Leaks, cracks, and tears in hoses cause leaks. Over time, refrigerant leaks out. So while you probably won't notice right away, soon your unit will become less useful, and your ac condenser will permanently fail due to the extra labor.

    6. Electrical issues. Once failure happens, pointing to an electrical issue isn't difficult. It's often quite simple for a licensed tech to identify the root cause. To avoid this, simply have your unit serviced annually by someone who knows what they are doing.

    7. Lack of lubricant. Oil lubricants keep your condenser running smoothly. You wouldn't run your car without oil, right? Think of it the same way. Oil keeps ac condensers running free and clear. Have your oil levels checked each year as part of regular maintenance.

    For more information on how we can help you, please contact us any time. If your condenser is aging and you are looking to buy a condenser to replace your old one then consider opting in for a newer higher SEER unit in order to increase your long term cost savings.

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